Saturday, May 17, 2008

Crossing Queen Charlotte Strait


May 16

We left Sullivan Bay at 730 in thick fog. Fortunately it lifted fairly quickly and by the time we were in Queen Charlotte straits the fog completely lifted and was not a factor.
The West Sea Otter Buoy was reporting 3 meter swells and winds less than 10 mph. I know Iknow, we were told to wait for a report of 1.5 meters or less. The forecast was for diminishing swell through the day and light and variably winds. The weather forecast for the following days was for
increasing winds. So despite our friends warnings to not cross unless West Sea Otter was reporting a meter and a half swell or less we decided to go for it. We could always bail out if need be at one of several safe harbors. Besides, we needed another adventure.

We began to encounter increasing swells after we passed Blunden Harbor. Initially the swell was maybe 3 feet but the wind was calm and the sea only slightly rippled so we kept going. The day was glorious, blue sky and warm. We could only see one other boat making the crossing in front of us and other than that we had the strait all to ourselves.

As we went past Allison Harbor the swell increased considerably but the wind remained calm. By the time we approached Cape Caution the swell was easily the full 3 meters being reported by West Sea Otter. The boat handled the conditions quite well, far better than I expected. Can’t say the same for all the passengers.
Glen needed fuel so he decided to pull into Ducanby Landing to get out of the swells and give Liz a rest. She gets sea sick easily and the 9 foot seas were not doing her any favors.

Ducanby landing is in Rivers Inlet and is on the far end of the crossing so once we were there we were safely across one more significant navigation challenge. Ducanby landing is a well kept well maintained fishing lodge. It was not yet open for business but Rick the Caretaker was more than happy to show us around and sell us fuel. (1.74 / liter) The place has a full service restaurant and looks like a great place to stop on our way back down. The islands around the area are full of small coves, well protected for anchoring and exploring by kayak. Rick told us that a week ago they had a cougar hiding under one of the buildings so you know that this place is remote and isolated. The only way in is by air or boat.

We continued on and decided to spend the night at Joes cove in Fish Egg inlet. This is a fantastic, quiet and well protected anchorage.
Tomorrow we will try to explore Elizabeth lagoon by Dinghy. The lagoon is entrance is at the back of Joes cove and can be entered at high water slack through its outlet. When we first looked at it shortly after arrival the lagoon water was flowing out over a 6 foot falls. As the tide rises the water in the lagoon equalizes with the rising tide and the current reverses and water from the outside fills the lagoon.


We made it into the Lagoon with only minor damage to Glens prop. He found all the rocks, I went where he did not and made it through without a ding. Elizabeth Logoon is huge. We spent a good hour cruising through islands, bays and hidden coves and only covered about a third of the entire lagoon. It was so cool inside there, no one else around, no sign of civilization of any kind and wilderness as far as the eye can see. Well worth the time to go and explore and just an amazing experience.


tonight we are in Shearwater. A small resort near the indian community of Bella Bella.

No comments: