Saturday, August 31, 2013
8/22 & 23/13
Nanaimo
Got the last slot on the breakwater at Nanaimo YC after an
uneventful transit of the Straits of Georgia.
That's Georgia, Queen Charlotte, Johnston and Dixon plus Yuklata, Dent,
Green Point, Whirlpool rapids, all behind us without any drama or
excitement. All that is left is Dodd
Narrows and Juan De Fuca. Really an
amazing run of great weather and near perfect conditions for crossing some
really big and potentially scary waters.
The only issues were fog and with AIS, Radar and GPS Fog is not a huge
concern.
We had dinner last night at the Dinghy Dock Pub with Pete
and Linda, our last night together. They
are headed home and were hanging out for a couple more days.
Chris and Linda walked the town yesterday and I worked on
some small projects that I had planned on doing sometime during this trip. It just took me till now to find the
time.
Weather has been very summerish. Hot during the day with warm evenings. Fortunately
there has been a good breeze to keep it comfortable.
Should have dropped the crab pot off the NYC dock. This morning they were pulling decent sized
crab up after only 30 minutes of soaking.
Will try it next time were there.
If your not familiar with Nanaimo use caution transiting the
channel, there is a well known boat eating reef called Oregon Rock in the
center of the channel just west of the NYC docks. Stay in the marked channel between the green
markers and the Island. They have now
put red marker buoys next to the island so it is much easier to identify which
side of the green markers you should be on.
(Between the red and Green regardless of the direction of travel.)
We were in the channel southbound with the green on our
starboard and had a 30-foot sailboat headed right for us on our side of the
channel. There was no traffic around him
that would have prevented him from moving right in the channel so we could pass
port to port. I was just five feet off
the day marker and he was giving me no room to move away, I finally had to turn
hard left in front of him to avoid clipping the day marker with No Debt which
tows wide to the left. I missed
destroying No Debt by just inches then swerved back left to avoid the sailboat,
which never varied his course an inch. I
passed him port to port with 10 feet to spare.
I yelled at him as he went by, Nicely, telling him next time to try
giving me a little more room, and he looked up and said, Oh, OK! Like he had not a clue that I was even there
or that I had restricted room to maneuver.
Clueless Idiot # 3!
We departed this morning at 1100 to catch slack current at
Dodd by 1230. We were there in plenty of
time and swept through on a 3 knot current.
Will probably stop at Montague Harbor tonight. Then head in to Friday Harbor on the 24th.
It’s our 39th Anniversary today.
8/24/13
Stopped at Montague Harbor yesterday and dropped anchor since all the mooring buoy's were taken. Spent a quiet evening reading and exploring the harbor.
8/25 &26/13
Friday Harbor. Grabbed a spot on the outer breakwater, no power and a bit exposed to harbor wavers, but secure. We cleared customs without any issues. Wandered around town, it never changes. Mom and dad decided to come in for dinner so we met them at the chinese restaurant and had a pleasant meal with them. they looked pretty good considering what their health issues.
8/27/13
Crossed straits today on flat calm waters before the forecast 25 to 30 knots winds built. Began to get windy about an hour out of Port Townsend and took the first spray of water on the fly bridge of the entire trip. We docked at Ft Flagler for the night and the wind quickly increased to 30 + out of the SE. It created quite a rough ride for a while with the 2 foot waves hitting us broadside at the dock. I had to move No Debt to the other side of the dock it was so rough. We did fine but it blew hard enough that one of the mooring buoys broke loose and floated to the dock. Worst wind storm of the entire trip.
8/28/13
Uneventful run home today. 110 days, 3130 miles, 16 days of rain and one wind storm. Not bad. Good to be home.
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
Port McNeil to Nanaimo
8/12/13
Port McNeil
Buck and Lisa joined us this afternoon after a very long
drive from Lake Roosevelt. They arrived
about 3 pm so we stayed at the dock and let them relax and get settled and
catching up on news from home.
The rain is back, of course just in time for Buck and
Lisa. First rain in 6 weeks. Go figure. It is badly needed up here and the
locals are happy.
Buck and I went out fishing for a couple hours to a spot the
locals said was hot hot hot. They said
you could not keep the Coho off the hooks.
They could not find ours apparently.
8/13/13
Sullivan Bay
We left for Sullivan Bay with Jim and Pete. Today was very nice with broken clouds and
quite warm. We crossed Queen Charlotte
Sound in calm weather, not a ripple to be seen.
Sullivan Bay is cool. A floating
city with street names like Hootchi Lane and Halibut Avenue. It was not very crowded so we did not really
need the reservations that Jim made for us.
New owners have done well with the place and are very friendly. At 5 we had happy hour and appetizers on the
docks with the other boaters and live music from a local musician. You get to hit five golf balls at a floating
tee each evening and if you get a hole in one you get your moorage paid for
that night. No one came close.
They are catching halibut right off the docks there, on guy
caught about a 20 lb. one while we were there.
We tried but no luck.
8/14/13
Claydon Bay
We ran a few miles to Claydon Bay and dropped anchor. Pete tried and tried to get his anchor set
but he just furrowed the bottom for a couple hundred feet and never got it to
grab. He tried multiple times so I gave it a try and got a solid set on the
first try. He came over and side tied to
us.
We had dropped shrimp and crab pots out of Sullivan bay so we
headed out to check them. No crab but we
got several dozen shrimp. Pete’s shrimp
pot had no shrimp but several small scallops.
We reset the crab pot in Claydon Bay and setback the shrimp pot since is
seemed to be in a good spot.
Rain is back as well as some wind. It blew pretty well for a couple hours in the
afternoon as forecast
Buck and I tried fishing for a couple hours without
luck. He did catch a dang dogfish, the
first of the trip. We thought for sure
it was a halibut but not to be. We explored
up to Turnbull Cove and looked into Roaring Rapids but decided not to give it a
go, which was a good thing because on the way back we spun the hub on the
prop. No Debt had been getting slower
and slower as time goes on and I just thought it was growth on the bottom
slowing us down. When we started we
could do 29 mph and plane with four people on board. Now we can’t get on plane with 4 people and
were down to 16 mph with 2 people on board.
I tried cleaning the bottom at Fury Cove by beaching it but I could not
get to the bottom.
I replaced the prop and we are back up to 20 mph top speed
so it’s better than it was.
8/15/13
We checked the shrimp pots and “holy cow batman”, the pot is
full. We counted almost 200 in this one
pull. Only one crab this morning but he
was a bigun.
We explored Drury Inlet by dinghy. Very cool place. Stopped at Jennis Bay and walked around the
docks. The owners were great to talk
to. Not much there, no power and no
restaurant but nice docks and they have a nightly potluck get together on the
party dock. Definitely need to return
and spend some time exploring the area.
We moved on today to Cullen Harbor which is just outside of
Booker Lagoon. We put the shrimp pots
inside and tried fishing outside and Buck got one nice sized Rock Fish. It’s been raining off and on fairly hard this
afternoon, no wind however.
8/16/13
I got up early and headed for Port McNeil to drop off Buck
and Lisa for their long drive home. Calm
crossing, we spotted a large pod of dolphin just off Alert Bay and watched them
for a while. Picked up fuel and water
for the rest of the trip home.
Pete called; he pulled the pots this morning, 350 plus shrimp in this one pull. Ye ha! Magic Pot is still doing its thing.
Pete called; he pulled the pots this morning, 350 plus shrimp in this one pull. Ye ha! Magic Pot is still doing its thing.
It’s blowing about 30 right now on our nose as we leave Port
McNeil to meet up with Pete and Linda in Goat Cove near Mamalilaculla, an old
abandoned First Nations village.
The wind was blowing right into the cove we planned on using
so I moved 2 miles to the same cove we used on the way up. It is next to New Vancouver, a first nations
reservation village.
8/17/13
Woke up to a very nice day.
We decided to go exploring and started with a stop at New
Vancouver. Nice docks and the village is
very new looking. They are building a
new long house with some spectacular totems out front. We were met by a wolf, yes a real wolf named,
Get this Wolf. One of the villagers met
us and told us that we could not visit the long house, as it was not finished
yet. Tours were available for a price
but we were not offered one. He said
moorage was available at 1.00/ft. and there is power on the docks. The walking tour was $15.00 and the tour of
the long house was $20.00, but again he did not offer us that deal.
We then motored over to see if we could find the Monks wall
on the other side of the peninsula but we had the directions wrong and were
unable to find them. I should have
followed my instinct and we would have found it. When I went back and read the directions I
now know where it is.
We then went over to the abandoned village of Mamalamacula,
which is not it’s correct name but that is what the charts show. Again there is a sign on the beach offering
tours for 10.00 from the watchman at New Vancouver but there is nothing to see. The trails through the thick berry bushes go
nowhere and what is visible is in very poor condition.
We saw a black bear swimming from the village to a small
island and got a picture of him crawling out on the shore. Later we saw him again as he swam from a
small unnamed island to Pearl Island. We
got some good photos and video of him as he swam and crawled out on shore. Very rare sight.
We pulled anchor and headed for Lagoon Cove where we
anchored for the night and put down a shrimp pot as well as crab pots. Picked up gas for No Debt and the dinghy that
should last till we get home. Tried
fishing without any catching. Probably a
good thing because the Canadian rules on processing fish are nearly impossible
to understand much less comply with.
Woke up to a miserable morning, wet and foggy. I went out and pulled the shrimp pot while
Pete got the Crab Pots. One measly crab
and about 100 shrimp.
We were underway by 730 to catch the flood tide up Johnston
strait. As it turned out there was not much
flood. The ebb overpowered it and we
never did see much in the way of a push until right at Whirlpool rapids. We got up to 13.5 knots going through at peak
flood, which was supposed to be about 7 knots.
There was no real issue, a bit of turbulence on the down side of the
rapids, a lot of boils and small whirlpools but no big deal for us. Watched a sailboat enter right after us
however and he got tossed around a whole lot.
Turned him sideways and watched his mast sway back and forth about 40
degrees. Had to be a wild ride for him.
Once through however we went back to about 8 knots all the
way to Green Point Rapids and again it was no big deal to run it at peak flood
of 7 knots.
We anchored in Cordero Islands at the far west end and stern
tied to a small island. All was calm
when we left to go visit Blind Channel Resort for ice cream and to catch up on
email. When we returned however the
current was racing around the island and it appeared that this was a poor
choice for an anchorage and decided to up anchor and move. I went to the east end of the cove and stern
tied to another island and it was a far more pleasant spot with no effect from
the currents and well protected from most winds.
Johnstone Strait was once again no big deal with no wind and
virtually no waves. We were escorted for about 10 minutes by a huge pod of
porpoise, which diverted from their course to intercept us and play in our
waves. It is just spectacular to watch.
The rains stopped about mid-day and it turned out to be a beautiful
day. We sat on the back deck at 7pm with
Pete and Linda for drinks and appetizers.
Up early for a 12-mile run to Dent Rapids by 0900 hours.
8/19/13
Woke up to another wet foggy rainy morning just like
yesterday. We pulled anchor at 0800 and
headed for Dent Rapids 12 miles away. We
hit the rapids right on time for an uneventful run through Dent and Yuklata
rapids. The entire run to the rapids
was through layers of fog and heavy rain.
As we exited the last rapids we could see blue sky and sun to the SE and
by the time we reached Gorge Harbor it was sunny and warm again.
We have now put the biggest crossings and the tidal rapids
behind us on our way home and have only to get across the Straits of Georgia
and Juan De Fuca and all the difficult parts of this trip will be behind
us. We have travelled almost 3000 miles
in four months, seen 24 bears, 9 of them grizzlies, some with cubs, (that does
not count the dozen we saw at Anan or the half dozen at Kake), to many eagles
and whales to count and huge pods of porpoise.
We have caught our limit of salmon, 12 coho and pinks and 1 King and 4
halibut, done well shrimping and have seen and experienced places that few get
to see in a lifetime. Glaciers,
icebergs, waterfalls and amazing sunsets were an every day event. We shared it
with family and good friends and have stories to tell and places to return
to. This has been a great trip and one
for the record books. Can’t wait to get
back and explore places that we only cruised by and spend more time exploring
the Broughtons and areas north to Prince Rupert. A whole new area to spend time
in closer to home.
8/20/13
Gorge Harbor was great. The afternoon was spectacular, warm and sunny.. We anchored in 60 feet of water and Pete Side tied to us. We explored the harbor, Shark Spit and Whaletown by dinghy. Whaletown is not worth a stop. Nothing there whatsoever. A dock and the closed up store. Nothing else of interest.
Pete and Linda took us to dinner at the Gorge Resort Resstaurant and we had a fabulous meal on the deck.
The wind came up that evening and blew fairly hard out of the SW and was a good test of the anchor. Once again it held quite nicely and was a bear to pull up in the morning. We got an early start and headed down to Sandy Island Marine Park and anchored. Once again just a beautiful sunny day. Spent the afternoon on the beach and relaxing on the back deck.
8/21/13
Left Sandy Island for Nanaimo about 8 am and had a smooth run most of the way. Wind picked up a few miles out of Nanaimo but it was a following sea and was not an issue. We got a spot on the outer dock at the Nanaimo YC but there was no room for Pete so he has a spot down in town.
Laundry again and a bit of shopping. Tomorrow were going to take a train excursion to the other side of the Island, Port Alberni. Should be interesting.
Monday, August 12, 2013
Ketchikan to Home
8/3/13
We left Wrangle and headed south for Frosty Bay where we
would stage for the Anan Bear Reserve tour.
Frosty Bay is ok, not very scenic but secure. We did get crab here so that was a bonus. Tried some fishing without any luck but
Nichole got a halibut and the next day Nat’s Grandson caught a nice 30 lb.
halibut.
8/4/13
Took the dinghy’s the 9 miles to Anan and anchored them in
the outlet of the lagoon. Hiked the half-mile
boardwalk to the observatory after getting the obligatory forest service safety
briefing on bears. There is no guide;
you hike the trail on your own, they recommend staying in large groups and
making lots of noise, as there are plenty of bear around. They did give us a can of bear spray. There were 6 of us, Glen, Liz, Pete, Linda,
Chris and I. We were one permit short
but the resident ranger gave us an extra one so I could tag along. We did not see any bear on the hike in, lots
of sign however. The actual observatory
is a wooden deck overlooking a bend in the river and a 20-foot waterfall where
the fish queue up for a run at getting over the falls and the bear congregate
to eat them. The platform has a 3-foot
high wood picket fence to keep the people in and the bears out. Not a lot between them and us. Two rangers are there to keep us from being
eaten.
There were 4 or 5 black bears in the river feeding and a
couple of young browns running up the river when we got there. The bears would catch a fish and then amble
up the hill to the platform and flop down under it to eat their catch or wander
by just a couple feet outside of the enclosure till they found a spot to sit
and munch in peace. We stayed for
several hours watching and taking photos and it was all very cool to be that
close without feeling to intimidated. An
encounter that close anywhere else would end in violence.
We hiked back out and had one black bear cross the trail
right in front of us and sit in the woods above the trail watching as we passed
by. A brown bear was just 20 yards off
the trail eating a fish when we went by and watched us closely as we scurried
past a safe distance to take photos.
Just a great experience.
From Anan we raced back to the boats, pulled anchor and
headed for Meyer’s Chuck. I had to
replace a fuel filter in the genset and on the starboard motor before we left
as both showing signs of being plugged.
Imagine that after 2500 miles and 300 hours on the engines.
Got to Meyer’s Chuck at about 7pm and it was full up at the
dock so we dropped anchor for the evening.
Last night with Dodges.
They are headed to Naha and then to Ketchikan to park the boat for a
week to return for a ski patrol conference then they will return about the 12th
for the trip home. They are going to
take our fish home with them. The Cedar
Lodge in Ketchikan sold us two insulated shipping boxes that we packaged all
our fish in; one held the halibut and one the salmon. The lodge stored the fish until Glen gets in
and he will take them with him as extra baggage when they fly home on the 7th.
Were headed south at breakneck speed to see if we can meet
up with Mierkes in the Broughtons in week.
8/5/13
Left Meyer’s chuck at 0900 and reached Ketchikan without
issue. Found a place that will hold all
of our frozen fish for a couple days until Glen can pick it up and take it home
with him as extra baggage. We boxed up
all the halibut and most of the salmon into two large 40 plus lb. boxes and
left it with the Cedar’s Lodge till Glen can get it.
I went out fishing for a couple hours and got one more pink
to start filling up the freezer again.
The charter boats were coming into the Cedars Lodge and dropping of
their catches and it was quite impressive.
Lots of silver and good sized 20/30 lb. halibut on the scales. It is quite a busy little place. I figured if they could catch I might as well
go out and see what I could do. Lots of
pinks everywhere but I guess you need to know where the good stuff was. Caught a couple small rockfish as well but threw
them back.
We went out to Anna Belles restaurant for dinner with the
group and the same waitress that waited on us two months prior was our server
and she remembered us and even what we ordered.
Quite amazing and very nice. We
ordered ice cream for dessert, it says a scoop of ice cream with topping, and
she brought us bowls with 4 or 5 scoops in each. More than we could all eat. She got a good tip.
8/6/13
Left Ketchikan with Pete and Linda and Jim and Cheryl headed
across Dixon Entrance with a forecast that is near perfect. No wind virtually no seas. The forecast was spot on except for the lack
of mention of pea soup fog. We ran into
a fog bank about a third of the way across and it did not clear off till we
reached Dundas Island. Jim nearly ran
into a gill net in the fog, he had warned us just before he entered the fog; he
was a couple miles ahead of us, that there were a lot of gill net fishing boats
ahead. Just after entering the fog he
had a close encounter with a net and scared him the fish and the fishermen. We have lost AIS for some reason so we only
had radar on this transit. It worked
fine and we were able to avoid all the nets and finally came out into beautiful
blue skies and calm seas for the final push to Prince Rupert.
At Prince Rupert there was no room at the inn. All the moorage was taken so we anchored up
in Salt Lake Cove across from town, same place we stayed on the way up. Nice anchorage but it does get waves from
passing boats.
8/7/13
We got in late so the next morning we went over to town in
the dinghy in really thick fog. I
overslept because I did not make the time change from Alaska Time to Canadian time,
which is one hour earlier. Instead of
getting up at 7 for our 730 departures I was up at 8 wondering why everyone was
still asleep. They were already
gone. Chris and I made the crossing slowly
with me holding the air horn in hand and listening closely for the sounds of
engines. You could only see about 200
feet and when the large anchored freighter loomed in front of us it was a bit eerie. We made it but our sleeping in meant a late
start. We had fog until we reached the
north end of Grenville Channel. From
there is was clear and we kept right on going all the way to Coughlin anchorage
at the south end of Grenville Channel.
Jim said he knew of a good fishing spot where we were assured of
catching silvers. It was a chore getting
anchored up, the wind was blowing fairly stiff in the anchorage and our attempt
at anchoring and getting a stern line to shore put us sideways to the wind so
we decided to each drop anchors and swing separately in the bay. No big deal but by the time we were set it
was quite late in the evening.
8/8/13
It was raining pretty hard when we woke up but Jim still
wanted to go fishing and Pete was not feeling up to it so I went with Jim in
his Grady White. Before going I pulled
anchor and tied next to Pete so when Chris got up she would have someone to
socialize with when she woke up while I was out with Jim.
Jim and I went out and caught 3 salmon, pinks of course. Since we needed to keep moving south at a
steady rate to meet up with guests we upped anchor about 1100 and headed south
for Khutze. Hopefully we can find a spot
we can get anchored. It appears the
great southern migration has begun with several other boats headed in the same
general direction. It’s getting crowded
up here.
We anchored in the same spot that Glen and I anchored in
2008, under the waterfall. Jim and Pete
were dubious but I assured them it was possible. I dropped in 100 feet on the steep slope of
the shelf and backed into 50 feet and stern tied to a large tree. Bomber even though the scope was only 2 to 1
with 200 feet of chain out. Anchor was
pulling up slope with the chain lying on the steep face of the slope so it was
like dragging it flat across the ground.
But both Pete and Jim put down anchors as well and we were going
nowhere. Nice spot.
8/9/13
Khutze to Shearwater
A slow start this morning.
My crab pot went missing. Put it
in the mouth of the river and the current must have drug it into deep
water. Fog was pea soup thick this
morning so I could not do much of a search.
Figured it sank anyway once it hit over a hundred feet. Pete’s was there, right next to where I put
mine and he had three keepers. No shrimp
in mine either but Pete had a dozen in his.
Found the shrimp pots in the fog fairly quickly.
For some reason the genset stopped charging the
batteries. Without the gen set I had
nothing, no 110 power at all. Hmmm? While I am troubleshooting that with Pete
Cheryl sticks her head in and says there may be a delay, their chart is all screwed
up and won’t show on the screen correctly.
Took me about 15 minutes to figure out the large fuse was
the problem, looked good but no continuity from side to side. Took it out and replaced it after cleaning
all the connections and bingo, it works. Start with the simple.
Went over and Jim’s screen was a hodgepodge of color and
Pete said it looked like a weather overlay.
I asked Jim to pull up his options for information layers and had him
turn off the weather overlay. Sure
enough all the strange markings went away and all was good. 2 minute fix.
Had to use the boat engines to break the anchor free this
morning, it was set well and the windlass would not pull it free. As we left the end of the bay I saw my yellow
float off to the side, I was dubious it was mine since it was in 450 feet of
water which meant it had to be floating the pot. It was, we got the crab pot back but of
course no crabs. It must have floated fairly
quickly in the current. Lucky break
again.
Used more fuel than I expected, we have been running at 2200
rpm’s instead of 2000 and it used it up much faster leaving me a bit short for
the run to shearwater. I was well below ¼
on each tank but by my calculations I should have plenty of fuel to make it to
Shearwater. We stopped 5 miles north of
Shearwater in a cove named Discovery by Douglas and called Annivesray by Jim
and Cheryl. It is a beautiful spot worth
returning to. Caught crab and shrimp
here. Big Crab in Pete’s pot and lots of
shrimp in mine.
8/10/13
Still having trouble with Inverter Not charging and not inverting and have to run
Genset. Gen set stopped running from
lack of fuel part way to Shearwater. The
Genset intake port is shorter so it stops before the engines do. We made it and I took on 400 gallons, 200 per
side so I still had a few hours of run time but did not like being that low.
We continued on after eating a burger for lunch. Made it to Fury cove about 6 and side tied to
Jim and Cheryl.
8/11/13
Fury Cove to Pt. McNeil
Another long day crossing Queen Charlotte Strait in
fog. But it was smooth as glass and a
very pleasant ride. Got a spot on the
public pier and were doing laundry and trying to trouble shoot the
inverter. Looks like a loose
connection. Crossing my fingers.
Friday, August 2, 2013
Sitka to Ketchikan
7/26/13 We left Sitka and cruised up thru Olga and Neva straits to our current anchorage in Schulze Cove just outside the west end of Peril Strait. I decided that I was not going to run Surgius Narrows at its peak flood. The book advises against it as the currents can run quite fast and violently through there. I could see from a distance that the red entrance buoy was laying fully on its side in the current with white water lapping over it. I promised Chris we would not do any exciting stuff that was avoidable. We stern tied about 2/3 of the way into the bay and Pete and Dave joined us a bit later. Glen was delayed, having to return for more internet connectivity and he powered on through the rapids on to Little Bear Cove where we were planning on being and we did not make radio contact with him till after he went through so he stayed the night in Little Bear. The fish were jumping all around us but both Pete and I tried an assortment of enticements and could not get any interest from the fish. Were convinced that every time they jump they are flipping us off. They are just pinks or chums anyway but they would be fun to catch and release on the lightweight casting gear. Passed Steve and Kim Oberto in Maximo at the entrance to Peril Strait. They were headed for Sitka and said the Coho were fighting to get their bait in Gut Bay south of Baranoff Hot Springs. Sure, were not going there.
7/27/13 Buck and Lisa are going to try to meet us on the north end of Vancouver Island mid August. If we do Anan on the 4th and head for Ketchikan that afternoon and leave Ketchikan on August 5th that will give us 8 days to go 390 miles. We can do it if there are no weather delays. Will suggest Aug 15th to them as a good target. Not sure how long they want to stay. Were headed for Appleton Cove for tonight. Not sure if we can stern tie there, as I recall there were lots of mud flats all around the anchorage so we shall see what works. Hopefully we will be back in the crab there.
7/28/13 Stayed in Appleton Cove last night. Pete and I went out fishing and after catching lots of strange looking bottom creatures we went really deep, 250 plus and immediately caught two nice sized Red Snapper, Also known as Yellow Eye Rock fish and then a third one. All keepers. We cooked up two of our Pinks, did that before we knew we had snapper, and fried up one piece of snapper for everyone. It was a great meal. We checked the crab pots and low and behold, we got crab. Lots of crab. The pots were crawling with them and between the four of us we had at least a dozen keepers. No sea otters thus we have crab. No shrimp however and the salmon are not biting what were feeding them. The last week has been cooler with clouds and rain at night. But today we woke up to beautiful blue skies and warm sun. High pressure has built up so were in for some good weather for the next week. Amazing Anchor! My Ultra held all four boats, that's 120 feet of boat on one anchor in a 15 mph side wind. We were side tied in Appleton Cove when the wind shifted to the west and was pushing against the side of our boats. My anchor was taking the full weight as well as my stern tie. We tried to put some strain on Pete’s anchor but it pulled all the way in without ever grabbing. That means mine was all that was holding us. We reset Pete’s for the night but I am very happy that mine was able to hold all that weight. We are in a small cove behind Cabin Point just south of Angoon in Hood Bay. Very secure and pretty. Took a long dinghy ride up to Angoon and into Kootznahoo Inlet. It is a very isolated and intricate lagoon that you enter through reversing rapids. Dave and Mary balked at the rapids but got sucked in anyway so Glen had to go back and lead them to our location since it is so intricate and confusing back there. Quite an amazing and special place, very quiet and mystical.. On our way to Baranoff we stopped several times to watch whales feeding along the shoreline. We had just started up again and were at full speed when we had a close encounter of a Whale kind. A large humpback rose up out of the water without blowing just two boat lengths in front of us on a crossing path. I dumped it to idle speed and then out of gear and coasted to a stop. We were so close that I had to stand up to see him over the bow of the boat. He rose up a second time right next to the bow, his tail under the boat and then a third time about 30 feet off the bow. He never acted as if we were intruding or that he was the least bit concerned that we were there. He finally flipped his tail up and dove under allowing us to continue on. We got a couple good photos of his back but my camera decided to act up at that point and I did not get the close up of his tail fluke as he dove away. We found space on the docks and hiked up the boardwalk to the hot springs for a bath. It is a very warm pool, about 115 degrees and only a couple of us were able to fully immerse ourselves in the water. The hike is mostly up a nice boardwalk but the last 300 yards is up and over a muddy root covered trail and the hot pools are just feet from the roaring river that falls out of the lake above into the bay at the head of the docks. I went out fishing at the head of the bay and picked up three more pinks in about an hour. No more pinks, need silvers and halibut. My wife who used to complain that I couldn’t catch fish is now complaining when I do. A guy can’t win. We had crab fettuccini on the dock with the whole armada, another fabulous meal. It is finally getting dark enough to see stars at night. Last night was glorious. By this morning the docks were full and the bay had a 9 boats anchored in the bay including a good-sized expedition yacht and multiple large seiners. The walk to the hot springs was busy in the morning with everyone headed up for a morning soak.
7/30/13 We left the hot springs headed for Lords Pocket, a small cove surrounded by a couple islands near Kake. The crossing of Chatham Strait for the 3rd time was a bit lumpy until we got across and into Frederick Sound where it smoothed out to flat glass. A couple whales put on a show for us off in the distance, it was sunny and warm. Glen surprised us all by telling us he was going to drop a line for some halibut on some 100 foot deep spots just outside of the nights stop. I picked another high spot nearby and dropped the halibut gear and fished for over an hour drifting back and forth across the top of the mound with no luck, not even a nibble. A couple of whales were feeding nearby so I stopped fishing and moved closer for Chris to get some photos when all of a sudden they breeched 200 feet in front of us, coming clear out of the water. No pictures of course because we were not expecting that action. Then they resumed swimming in our direction passing right under the boat. We cruised back up to where Glen was fishing, he had caught two smaller 12 lb halibut so I dropped a line and almost instantly got hit by something big. For the next 30 minutes I reeled him in, let him run, reeled him in let him run. He was big and did not want to come up. I knew we were in trouble however because I was not in any way ready to land a big fish. We were fishing from the big boat with No Debt bow tied alongside. All the fishing equipment including Pete’s harpoon was on board No Debt so with Chris’s help, (she did not think she could hold the rod because of how hard I was working to hold it and real it in) I got into the bow of No Debt and was able to get one of the gaffs then Chris got into the bow of No Debt but it was quickly obvious that she was not going to be able to Gaff this thing. So Glen motored over in his big boat and he transferred from his bow to the Bow of Miner’s Debt and got into No Debt to assist. First we had to get Chris out of No Debt back onto Miner Debt to get her out of the way because three people in the bow of No Debt was not going to work. Once Chris was back on the big boat I reeled in the big Halibut and Glen put the Harpoon through it. Now we had it and just had to figure out how to land it. I got a loop on its tail so no we had it two ways and no way was it getting loose. Glen tried killing it with a knife but it did not take kindly to being stabbed so it began thrashing in the water and soaked both Glen and I. I finally was able to cut its gills and it was over. It took both of us to get it out of the water and secured to the big boat. Beautiful fish weighed in at 76 lbs and was almost 5 feet long, the largest thing I have ever caught. I have no earthly idea how anyone by themselves would have landed this fish or for that matter how you land anything bigger. There are pictures of 300 lb halibut everywhere and for the lfie of me I can’t figure out how you would manage something that big and strong. We spent the night cleaning and fileting the fish. Glen and I took them to shore and set up a table to do the cleaning and then brought them back for vacuum sealing on our back deck. The halibut steaks and roasts filled up our freezer and Pete and Lindas. Great night. We did not have halibut for dinner since we already had pulled out a bunch of pork chops so Chris said we had to eat those first since they had been out of the freezer for a couple days. Halibut tonight.
We went over to Kake after anchoring in Lords Pocket to explore. The tallest totem in the country is its name to fame. That is really all that they have. The village is really run down and there is nothing there for visitors, no stores no shops. We ran into the local police officer and he said the bears were feeding on the salmon run down by the creek so he gave the ladies a ride down in the back of his patrol vehicle. Glen and I walked. Sure enough, the black bears were feasting on the spawning chum salmon. There were four total that we could see and one mother with a cup just across the river from the hatchery viewing area. Pretty cool to be that close. Pete spun his prop on the way back so i ran everyone back in no debt then returned to tow pete back to the boats.
7/31/13 We cruised on down to the north end of Rocky Pass and found a nice spot to anchor and to wait for the rising tide in the morning to pass thru the intricate and narrow channel. Glen, Nat and I ran Glens dinghy through to check it out and on the return trip his gears finally gave out and we had to motor back at near idle speed. He had hit rocks twice before on the trip bending his propellor shaft and the gears finally said enough was enough abuse.
8/1/13 We motored thru Rocky Pass without incident, it is narrow and complex but the charts were dead on accurate and we had no problems finding our way around all the rocks and shallows. Not sure I would ever do it with paper charts or without a good working GPS. Found a really nice anchorage in Totem Bay on the north side of Sumner strait. The Douglas book does not speak highly of the bay and it is poorly charted so it is doubtful if many people use it. The cove I found was well inside all the shallows on the SW side of the bay just past two small islets. The chart showed that we anchored on land but we were in 20 feet of water at low tide 100 feet off a gravle beach protected from all but a NE wind. It was a perfect small cove with limited swinging room but enough for all four of us with a stern tie. I decided to name it RHYC cove.
It was hot, near 81 so we had to take the dinghies out to get some cooler air. We took the shrimp pots out to a deep 330 foot hole just outside of the bay thinking it had to be a good shrimp hole. It was quite windy out there and the chop was all that No Debt wanted to handle. Tried fishing but no one was biting. Went up the river at the head of the bay at high tide after dinner and the fish were thick but again no luck. A few would grab the lure but I could not get them hooked. There was one black bear but he took off as soon as he saw Nats boat.
8/2/11
Woke up to another great day. Went out to get the shrimp pots this morning and nothing in them. Dave lost his, not where to be found. We searched for quite a while in dense fog but no luck. Cruised on up to wrangle this morning in thick fog all the way to the south end of Wrangle narrows. The water was flat calm but had less than a quarter mile visibility all the way. Thank god for AIS and good radar. From Wrangle we will head down to Anan Bear observatory for hopefully some up close brown bear encounters. We have seperated from Colliers and Mehlum's and will be with Jung's for the trip home. Glen and Liz will be with us for the next couple days and then they have to leave the boat and head home for a week so we will be leaving them as well. Jim and Cheryl Matheson are here in Wrangle so we can catch up on all their adventures as well. Next posting will be in a couple days in Ketchikan.
7/26/13 We left Sitka and cruised up thru Olga and Neva straits to our current anchorage in Schulze Cove just outside the west end of Peril Strait. I decided that I was not going to run Surgius Narrows at its peak flood. The book advises against it as the currents can run quite fast and violently through there. I could see from a distance that the red entrance buoy was laying fully on its side in the current with white water lapping over it. I promised Chris we would not do any exciting stuff that was avoidable. We stern tied about 2/3 of the way into the bay and Pete and Dave joined us a bit later. Glen was delayed, having to return for more internet connectivity and he powered on through the rapids on to Little Bear Cove where we were planning on being and we did not make radio contact with him till after he went through so he stayed the night in Little Bear. The fish were jumping all around us but both Pete and I tried an assortment of enticements and could not get any interest from the fish. Were convinced that every time they jump they are flipping us off. They are just pinks or chums anyway but they would be fun to catch and release on the lightweight casting gear. Passed Steve and Kim Oberto in Maximo at the entrance to Peril Strait. They were headed for Sitka and said the Coho were fighting to get their bait in Gut Bay south of Baranoff Hot Springs. Sure, were not going there.
7/27/13 Buck and Lisa are going to try to meet us on the north end of Vancouver Island mid August. If we do Anan on the 4th and head for Ketchikan that afternoon and leave Ketchikan on August 5th that will give us 8 days to go 390 miles. We can do it if there are no weather delays. Will suggest Aug 15th to them as a good target. Not sure how long they want to stay. Were headed for Appleton Cove for tonight. Not sure if we can stern tie there, as I recall there were lots of mud flats all around the anchorage so we shall see what works. Hopefully we will be back in the crab there.
7/28/13 Stayed in Appleton Cove last night. Pete and I went out fishing and after catching lots of strange looking bottom creatures we went really deep, 250 plus and immediately caught two nice sized Red Snapper, Also known as Yellow Eye Rock fish and then a third one. All keepers. We cooked up two of our Pinks, did that before we knew we had snapper, and fried up one piece of snapper for everyone. It was a great meal. We checked the crab pots and low and behold, we got crab. Lots of crab. The pots were crawling with them and between the four of us we had at least a dozen keepers. No sea otters thus we have crab. No shrimp however and the salmon are not biting what were feeding them. The last week has been cooler with clouds and rain at night. But today we woke up to beautiful blue skies and warm sun. High pressure has built up so were in for some good weather for the next week. Amazing Anchor! My Ultra held all four boats, that's 120 feet of boat on one anchor in a 15 mph side wind. We were side tied in Appleton Cove when the wind shifted to the west and was pushing against the side of our boats. My anchor was taking the full weight as well as my stern tie. We tried to put some strain on Pete’s anchor but it pulled all the way in without ever grabbing. That means mine was all that was holding us. We reset Pete’s for the night but I am very happy that mine was able to hold all that weight. We are in a small cove behind Cabin Point just south of Angoon in Hood Bay. Very secure and pretty. Took a long dinghy ride up to Angoon and into Kootznahoo Inlet. It is a very isolated and intricate lagoon that you enter through reversing rapids. Dave and Mary balked at the rapids but got sucked in anyway so Glen had to go back and lead them to our location since it is so intricate and confusing back there. Quite an amazing and special place, very quiet and mystical.. On our way to Baranoff we stopped several times to watch whales feeding along the shoreline. We had just started up again and were at full speed when we had a close encounter of a Whale kind. A large humpback rose up out of the water without blowing just two boat lengths in front of us on a crossing path. I dumped it to idle speed and then out of gear and coasted to a stop. We were so close that I had to stand up to see him over the bow of the boat. He rose up a second time right next to the bow, his tail under the boat and then a third time about 30 feet off the bow. He never acted as if we were intruding or that he was the least bit concerned that we were there. He finally flipped his tail up and dove under allowing us to continue on. We got a couple good photos of his back but my camera decided to act up at that point and I did not get the close up of his tail fluke as he dove away. We found space on the docks and hiked up the boardwalk to the hot springs for a bath. It is a very warm pool, about 115 degrees and only a couple of us were able to fully immerse ourselves in the water. The hike is mostly up a nice boardwalk but the last 300 yards is up and over a muddy root covered trail and the hot pools are just feet from the roaring river that falls out of the lake above into the bay at the head of the docks. I went out fishing at the head of the bay and picked up three more pinks in about an hour. No more pinks, need silvers and halibut. My wife who used to complain that I couldn’t catch fish is now complaining when I do. A guy can’t win. We had crab fettuccini on the dock with the whole armada, another fabulous meal. It is finally getting dark enough to see stars at night. Last night was glorious. By this morning the docks were full and the bay had a 9 boats anchored in the bay including a good-sized expedition yacht and multiple large seiners. The walk to the hot springs was busy in the morning with everyone headed up for a morning soak.
7/30/13 We left the hot springs headed for Lords Pocket, a small cove surrounded by a couple islands near Kake. The crossing of Chatham Strait for the 3rd time was a bit lumpy until we got across and into Frederick Sound where it smoothed out to flat glass. A couple whales put on a show for us off in the distance, it was sunny and warm. Glen surprised us all by telling us he was going to drop a line for some halibut on some 100 foot deep spots just outside of the nights stop. I picked another high spot nearby and dropped the halibut gear and fished for over an hour drifting back and forth across the top of the mound with no luck, not even a nibble. A couple of whales were feeding nearby so I stopped fishing and moved closer for Chris to get some photos when all of a sudden they breeched 200 feet in front of us, coming clear out of the water. No pictures of course because we were not expecting that action. Then they resumed swimming in our direction passing right under the boat. We cruised back up to where Glen was fishing, he had caught two smaller 12 lb halibut so I dropped a line and almost instantly got hit by something big. For the next 30 minutes I reeled him in, let him run, reeled him in let him run. He was big and did not want to come up. I knew we were in trouble however because I was not in any way ready to land a big fish. We were fishing from the big boat with No Debt bow tied alongside. All the fishing equipment including Pete’s harpoon was on board No Debt so with Chris’s help, (she did not think she could hold the rod because of how hard I was working to hold it and real it in) I got into the bow of No Debt and was able to get one of the gaffs then Chris got into the bow of No Debt but it was quickly obvious that she was not going to be able to Gaff this thing. So Glen motored over in his big boat and he transferred from his bow to the Bow of Miner’s Debt and got into No Debt to assist. First we had to get Chris out of No Debt back onto Miner Debt to get her out of the way because three people in the bow of No Debt was not going to work. Once Chris was back on the big boat I reeled in the big Halibut and Glen put the Harpoon through it. Now we had it and just had to figure out how to land it. I got a loop on its tail so no we had it two ways and no way was it getting loose. Glen tried killing it with a knife but it did not take kindly to being stabbed so it began thrashing in the water and soaked both Glen and I. I finally was able to cut its gills and it was over. It took both of us to get it out of the water and secured to the big boat. Beautiful fish weighed in at 76 lbs and was almost 5 feet long, the largest thing I have ever caught. I have no earthly idea how anyone by themselves would have landed this fish or for that matter how you land anything bigger. There are pictures of 300 lb halibut everywhere and for the lfie of me I can’t figure out how you would manage something that big and strong. We spent the night cleaning and fileting the fish. Glen and I took them to shore and set up a table to do the cleaning and then brought them back for vacuum sealing on our back deck. The halibut steaks and roasts filled up our freezer and Pete and Lindas. Great night. We did not have halibut for dinner since we already had pulled out a bunch of pork chops so Chris said we had to eat those first since they had been out of the freezer for a couple days. Halibut tonight.
We went over to Kake after anchoring in Lords Pocket to explore. The tallest totem in the country is its name to fame. That is really all that they have. The village is really run down and there is nothing there for visitors, no stores no shops. We ran into the local police officer and he said the bears were feeding on the salmon run down by the creek so he gave the ladies a ride down in the back of his patrol vehicle. Glen and I walked. Sure enough, the black bears were feasting on the spawning chum salmon. There were four total that we could see and one mother with a cup just across the river from the hatchery viewing area. Pretty cool to be that close. Pete spun his prop on the way back so i ran everyone back in no debt then returned to tow pete back to the boats.
7/31/13 We cruised on down to the north end of Rocky Pass and found a nice spot to anchor and to wait for the rising tide in the morning to pass thru the intricate and narrow channel. Glen, Nat and I ran Glens dinghy through to check it out and on the return trip his gears finally gave out and we had to motor back at near idle speed. He had hit rocks twice before on the trip bending his propellor shaft and the gears finally said enough was enough abuse.
8/1/13 We motored thru Rocky Pass without incident, it is narrow and complex but the charts were dead on accurate and we had no problems finding our way around all the rocks and shallows. Not sure I would ever do it with paper charts or without a good working GPS. Found a really nice anchorage in Totem Bay on the north side of Sumner strait. The Douglas book does not speak highly of the bay and it is poorly charted so it is doubtful if many people use it. The cove I found was well inside all the shallows on the SW side of the bay just past two small islets. The chart showed that we anchored on land but we were in 20 feet of water at low tide 100 feet off a gravle beach protected from all but a NE wind. It was a perfect small cove with limited swinging room but enough for all four of us with a stern tie. I decided to name it RHYC cove.
It was hot, near 81 so we had to take the dinghies out to get some cooler air. We took the shrimp pots out to a deep 330 foot hole just outside of the bay thinking it had to be a good shrimp hole. It was quite windy out there and the chop was all that No Debt wanted to handle. Tried fishing but no one was biting. Went up the river at the head of the bay at high tide after dinner and the fish were thick but again no luck. A few would grab the lure but I could not get them hooked. There was one black bear but he took off as soon as he saw Nats boat.
8/2/11
Woke up to another great day. Went out to get the shrimp pots this morning and nothing in them. Dave lost his, not where to be found. We searched for quite a while in dense fog but no luck. Cruised on up to wrangle this morning in thick fog all the way to the south end of Wrangle narrows. The water was flat calm but had less than a quarter mile visibility all the way. Thank god for AIS and good radar. From Wrangle we will head down to Anan Bear observatory for hopefully some up close brown bear encounters. We have seperated from Colliers and Mehlum's and will be with Jung's for the trip home. Glen and Liz will be with us for the next couple days and then they have to leave the boat and head home for a week so we will be leaving them as well. Jim and Cheryl Matheson are here in Wrangle so we can catch up on all their adventures as well. Next posting will be in a couple days in Ketchikan.
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Monday, July 22, 2013
Juneau to Sitka
July 7, 2013
We Left Juneau about noon on the 5th and then we spent two nights at the docks in Swanson Harbor, which is at the eastern end of Icy Strait. A couple of nice floating docks in a very secure harbor made for a couple of comfortable evenings. The docks here get very crowded with locals from Juneau who come out to fish and camp. Nat and Linda and Glen and Liz were delayed in Ketchikan so they did not join us till the second evening.
I took Luke and Pete out fishing and Luke caught two nice halibut off Hanus Reef. We got some local information on where to fish and crab and it proved to be good advice.
Luke and I went out that afternoon to salmon fish and we caught 6 pinks and two nice silvers. I used the lightweight casting rod for the pinks and they were great fun landing on the light gear. I also caught one very nice Dolly Varden trout right off the dock and Chris and I had that for breakfast this morning.
Today we are headed for Point Adolfus to see if we can find any whales. The rest of the group heads into Glacier Bay today and we can go in tomorrow after picking up a last minute permit for Monday for up to 6 days inside.
7/8/13
We were able to get a single day permit to enter yesterday with everyone else so we fished for a while off Point Adolfus catching one nice pink and releasing about 3 more before entering the park. You have to call the park when you cross the park boundary to activate your permit and they then give a bunch of regulations on how to travel, at what speed and where to avoid conflict with whales, seals and other sea life. You have to stop at Bartlett cove the park headquarters for an orientation. We all went to the 5 pm orientation and I think all 5 of the captains proceeded to nod off in the small, dark warm room. The park rangers were all very nice and answered any and all questions.
It looks like were done shrimping until we get to the Sitka area and areas further south as there is an emergency closure of shrimping for the foreseeable future in the Juneau management area.
We got down to about 3 feet of water on our stern that night at anchor, the wind shifted a bit and blew us sideways on our anchor and stern tie pushing Miners Debt into fairly shallow water. A bit of adjusting of the lines and anchors gained us a few feet until low tide.
From Bartlett cove Pete, Linda, Dave and Mary and Chris and I headed out leaving Glen and Liz and Nat and Linda behind so they could pick up guests and take care of some business before leaving phone coverage for 6 days.
We motored slowly down to North Sandy Cove and anchored in gray, drizzle. Not very spectacular scenery and it is hard to imagine a glacier covered this water just a little over 200 years ago. To me there is no sign of glacier activity as the hills around us are relatively low and the rock is very rotten, not like a smooth polished u shaped rock wall I associate with glacier carving.
There was a bear sighting on the shore at North Sandy but as I took Linda and Chris over in the dinghy to see it up close it began to just dump rain on us so we retreated to the shelter of the boat. It rained hard for a short while then quit but by then the bear was gone.
It rained very hard all night long, probably the hardest rain we have had the entire trip.
7/9/13
We left North Sandy in heavy rain and motored slowly up the Muir Inlet to McBride Glacier.
Enroute we sighted a couple Grizzly bears on the shoreline and Pete’s boat sighted a female moose swimming across the inlet.
McBride is recessed into the valley from Muir Inlet by about 2 miles. It has carved out its own little fjord protected by a shallow moraine that allows the tide water to flow in and out along with small and medium sized bergs. Glen anchored in 12 feet of water in the inlet allowing the current to pull his boat in towards the inner bay while small bergs floated past on either side as the tide came up. I was headed towards him to side tie while Nat in Reflections was looking for a spot to anchor nearby. He apparently did not realize there was a strong current pushing into the inner bay and for some reason positioned himself in front of Glen’s anchored boat while the pulled in their little boat Flec. We all saw what was happening as they floated sideways towards Glens bow and began yelling on the radio to move forward. Glen and Liz were on their bow hollering to move forward and at the last possible moment Nat realized what was about to happen and gunned his big boat into forward gear and missed a t bone with Glen but his tow line tangled with him and Flec wrapped around glen forcing Nat’s crew to cut the line to save both boats from further harm. It was exciting but no damage ensued other than damage to pride and some underwear.
We took the No Debt and picked up Pete and Linda and their Daughter Katie and her husband Luke and cruised up to the face of the McBride Glacier using No Debt as an icebreaker moving small berg bits aside. Got some great photos up close to a large berg and got within a few hundred yards of the glaciers face. The big bergs that drop off McBride cannot get past the moraine at the head of the bay into Muir inlet.
Glen and his guest Robert paddled kayaks into the bay.
The tide changed direction while we were gone and when we got back to the big boats the entrance to the inner bay was plugged with bergs as they waited their turn to run through the opening with the outgoing tide to batter our anchored and waiting boats. We got back as the line of bergs was just approaching the boats and were able to get our two boats untied and un anchored to move into clear water. Nat and Linda got back but could not move because Mary and Dave were tied to them and were with Liz on her little inflatable. They got back with Glen and Robert in tow just as the bergs surrounded Magic Moment. All was well, the bergs were moving very slowly at this point and Magic just parted them to either side as they slid past him in the slow current. No repeat of the titanic this time.
Did I mention it was raining? Still raining very hard all day today.
We found a spot not on the recommended anchor sites in the park brochure part way up Wachusett Inlet. A small bight just outside the non-motorized line in the inlet that left us anchored alongside a beautiful green meadow and a small outlet creek.
7/10/13
The rain has stopped and we have blue sky! It is warm again and the water is a beautiful emerald green. We can finally see the mountaintops and go outside without rain gear.
Took the small boats down to the end of Wachusett Inlet but could not get very close to the glacier. It is no longer tidewater and the river running out of it was dumping huge quantities of silt at the head of the bay, it was boiling up to the surface and very quickly the river was too shallow to proceed up it. Glen and Liz found fish floating on the surface trying to clear their gills and get some air because the silt was so thick it was killing them. We saw a grizzly bear ad two small cubs on the beach and were able to take some great photos, thought it was from some distance away. She would not allow us to get very close and moved her cubs into the brush as soon as we tried getting in closer.
Pete had alternator problems, lost a couple belts so Glen helped them change and tighten them this morning and Pete reports all is running normal now.
7/11/13
Anchored in Blue Mouse Cove last night and Chris and I took out the Kayaks for the first time on this trip. Very pretty spot with high mountains surrounding us. Mt Fairweather at 15,000 feet is the most prominent of the peaks that we can see as we cruise up the West Arm of the park. Much more spectacular than with clouds and rain obscuring the views. Not at all what I thought it would be like.
We all piled onto Glen’s boat today and cruised the 30 miles to the end of the bay to see Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers at the end of Tarr Inlet. Margerie was a bit active and released a couple of good-sized chunks of Ice into the bay while we idled a couple hundred yards away. We towed No Debt behind us so Chris and I went out for a bit in it to get a closer look at both glaciers while others took out Glen’s inflatable or the Kayaks.
We motored out way back via John Hopkins Inlet and going by two other large tidewater glaciers, Lamplugh and Reid. It was just a short 7-hour cruise with 19 people on board Glen’s boat for the day. We left all the other boats anchored in Blue Mouse Cove and they were there right where we left them when we returned. Again the weather was spectacular making for great views of all the mountains and glaciers. We saw virtually no wildlife however; a few seals and eagles but no whales and no more bear sightings. We did see a small white spec up on a large rock wall that we believe was actually a mountain goat but to far away to get any kind of good photos.
7/12/13
Hard to believe but our 6 days in the park are almost over. Time is flying by. Today were anchored in South Finger cove and will try out luck at some halibut fishing of Willoughby Island which is reported to have some large halibut to catch.
No luck. Luke had a big one on but lost it at the boat. He had the drag set too tight and one flick of the tail and the whole line parted with him.
7/13/13
Left Bartlett Cove about 2 pm headed for Inian Cove on the west end of Icy Strait. Amazing whale show. Hundreds of them spouting jumping and feeding but at some distance so no good photos. Just as we arrived at the mouth of Inian cove we had 5 whales swimming directly at us before diving not 100 feet away and once again no photos, my batteries went dead just as they dove giving us 5 tail flukes at the same time.
Inian cove is a nice spot but windy and the neigbors are not very nice. A big sign on the shore where there is apparently a small oyster farm that said, “Tourism Rapes Alaska”?
The wind never let up and for the first time we rafted in two groups, Nat, Dave and us and Pete and Glen separate. The wind seemed to blow right down the slope of a steep mountain and where you would think you had good wind protection it wasn’t. It blew so hard that during the night Pete and Glen drug anchor halfway across the cove.
We tried fishing at the head of the bay with no luck.
7/14/13
We left Inian headed for Elfin Cove and got the show of a lifetime as dozens of whales were feeding just outside in Cross Sound along with a flock of sea lions.
The were jumping, rolling nose diving and slapping the water with their tails and flukes and put on an amazing show for over an hour within a few hundred feet of the boat. You could not get past them there were so many at times simply surrounding the boat all the while ignoring our presence
Elfin cove is a quaint Alaskan village, very cool and definitely worth visiting. A small inner basin well protected but tight and shallow except at high tide. We resupplied at the small grocery store and walked around the village on the boardwalk that connects all the homes and buildings.
From Elfin cove we headed for Soapstone cove where we planned on spending two nights. Glen got inside where the Douglas book said there was a 2-fathom hole and ended up in 2 feet of water unable to turn around without waiting for the tide to rise. Decided this was not going to work. Will have to write Douglas to let them know this is not such a good anchorage. So while Glen extricated himself the rest of us motored down to Mite cove where we found a nice spot in amongst a fish buying operation. There were dozens of trollers and the next day dozens of purse seiners fishing just outside in Cross sound and at the head of the straits.
That evening while sitting on the back or Magic having appetizers Linda Jung looked up and saw a young Grizzly in the grass just 50 feet behind the boats. She had a hard time telling everyone to look she was so excited. A few hours later he was back at the head of the bay on the beach and we got a decent set of photos of him. Did not seem to concerned about all the activity in the cove.
7/15/13
Glen and I went out fishing in Cross Sound and each of us caught ach a silver and two pinks along with a couple of nice black cod. Fresh silver salmon filet for dinner.
We went back into Soapstone cove to explore the old secret military installation reported to be in there. Very unusual place for a military installation with an old concrete pier and the foundations for at least 5 small buildings and an underground bunker. The fish were jumping like crazy so I used the small casting rod and caught 5 different species of fish. Kept one nice pink.
Back at the boats we tried our had at skeet shooting off the back of Glens raised deck. Shot up a lot of target load and got maybe 4 hits total. Not a very respectable showing of marksmanship but it was fun. The bear did not make a repeat appearance, wonder why.
7/16/13
Moved on today with a visit to… , Yikes, had to take evasive action, suddenly Flec was floating just in front of the boat, it had come untied from Reflections as we motored through Lisianski straits at one of the narrowest points and I was just a few boat lengths behind them moving at 8 knots. Good thing I looked up fro typing this entry or it might have been an ugly collision. Apparently the towline separated at a splice?
Ok, back to the visit of Pelican. One of the best little villages we have visited to date, my favorite. Very nice people and quite a clean and well kept place with a boardwalk roadway all along the shoreline connecting all buildings and homes.
We had lunch at the Café including a great homemade vanilla shake. The general store was closed so reprovisioning was not possible. The book said this was the best place to do that between Juneau and Sitka, but not now. We stayed for a couple hours and moved on to the next stop somewhere on the outside of the island overlooking the Gulf of Alaska.
HO Boy! That was one hairy entry to Mirror Cove. High tide, narrow channel right through kelp that hides any rocks and in some cases looks like rocks with a wind blowing us sideways towards the island that you pass within 25 feet of and then a 90 degree dogleg through a 10 foot deep 30 foot wide channel that you have to pivot around. Holy crap batman!!!! Were here till high tide tomorrow. That was some excitement with Chris none to happy with me for taking her in here. She needs a stiff drink. Going out should actually be easier, I hope. More room to pivot going outbound than coming in. Neat spot once you’re in here though, has a feel of a mystical land with pointy peaks to the east and fog to the west. Feels like were anchored in a mountain lake.
7/17/13
Hiked to White Sulphur hot springs, about a mile hike on a decent boardwalk. The hot springs building is being rebuilt by the forest service so there was quite a building project underway with four guys working on the new foundation. We were able to soak in the 110-degree water anyway and had a great view out over the gulf of Alaska on a warm sunny day. Pete and the girls were done in and did not want to hike back so Glen and I hiked back in 20 minutes and got his dinghy along with No Debt and ran around the point from the anchorage to pick them up. Easy trip. Went exploring in the back bays behind the anchorage and found an unusual man made wall, no telling how old. It looks like it was built to put a fish net across a narrow and shallow opening. Nat and I went back at high tide and had a blast catching fish with almost every cast. I had two silvers and a couple pinks in less than an hour. Great fishing.
7/18/13
We left Mirror Harbor without too much trouble and went down to Klag Bay on Chichagof Island where there was an abandoned gold and silver mine village from the turn of the century. We explored the abandoned buildings and remains of the mining operation, which was quite extensive. Fishing was pretty good, I caught a large Chum on the light-weight casting rod which was a ton of fun. We explored the two connected bodies of water that are called lakes but they are very definitely not. We spotted a large grizzly and her cub at the head of the furthest lake and spent quite a while watching her and fishing for the spawning salmon. They were not biting.
7/19/13
We decided to finish the outside trip to Salisbury Sound since the weather report was good for going the 20 miles in the Gulf of Alaska to regain the inside protected waters. It was a simple trip with virtually no wind and maybe some 4-foot rollers.
Anchored in Kalinin Bay where the fish are swarming waiting to go up the river. Not biting however so the catching is not all that good and they all seem to be chum salmon.
We were going to hike a 2.5-mile trail to the outer beach through serious bear country but we could not find the trail. Found it after searching for an hour and decided it was too late. Lots of large bear tracks on the beach on top of human foot prints. Saw the bear off in the distance and he was big. May try it tomorrow with shotguns for protection.
7/20/13
Went fishing with Pete instead of hiking. I got a small halibut and Pete got a nice silver for two hours of trolling. Foggy and drizzle today. After cleaning the fish we upped anchor and headed for the Sitka area. Anchoring in a bay with no name on the south west side of Magoun Island.
Nate caught a nice King just outside the anchorage, otherwise no one was catching anything.
7/22/13
Left after two days in the no name anchorage and headed for Goddard Hot Springs for a night then to Sitka for a couple nights. Will download photos once we get there and find some wifi.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
7/16/13
We're in Pelican Alaska. Very cute place and the first place with Internet since Juneau.
We spent 6 days in Glacier Bay. Very interesting place and once the sun came out it was spectacular. I think Tracy arm and Endicott Arm were better but this was well worth doing.
After Glacier we moved west to Inian Cove were the wind blew all night, enough that by morning Glen and Pete who anchored independent of us had dragged half way across the bay.
We left the next morning for elfin cove and were privileged to see an amazing display of dozens of whales feeding in Cross Sound.
Stayed two nights in Mite Cove were Glen and I went fishing catching several pinks and two nice silvers.
Fresh salmon for dinner last night.
Right now were sitting in the cafe in Pelican having lunch and catching up on news and emails. On to Sitka via the outside route.
Friday, July 5, 2013
July 4
6/4/13
Five days here in Juneau. It's rained all 5 days.
Jason got off on his flight home on the 30 th and Chris came in on the 2 nd.
After waiting three days the mechanic for the outboard on No Debt finally showed up on Wednesday, took 30 seconds to diagnose the problem as a burned out regulator and after going back to the shop and getting a bigger more robust unit came back and replaced it in about five more minutes. Haven't got the bill yet but it will be worth it to have a reliable outboard again.
Had a plugged intake for the reverse air that I could not clear from inside so I called a diver and he came down and cleared it in about 5 minutes. That was 225.00.
Moor age at the downtown dock is pricey, and eating out in the tourist traps is very expensive. Juneau is going to be a very expensive stop.
On top of that both Chris and I spent a fair amount on art, gifts and other stuff not to mention the epic run to Costco. Took Chris and the two Linda's to the store for food and booze and after loading four shopping carts into the rental car we barely had room for us. It was quite comical.
Last night was the towns fireworks display and it was great. Long and close up and loud, the echoes off the mountains behind us was spectacular. Today's parade was great, true small town USA on the fourth. Loads of fun.
Tomorrow were out of here, headed for Sitka via icy strait and glacier bay. We don't have permits like everyone else so while they spend 6 days exploring the park Chris and I will hang out and whale watch and fish around the area between Hoona and Elfin cove.
Monday, July 1, 2013
Juneau Alaska
6/23/13
We went shopping for groceries this morning before Jason’s fight was due in. He called just as we were finishing up and so we got back to the boat about the same time as he arrived. We picked up his fishing license then John, Jason and I headed out to try our luck at fishing. Nothing doing.
Snow covered mountains from Petersburg
6/24/13
Chris is leaving today for her grandchild fix at home. She took about 30 lbs of fish home with her freeing up some valuable freezer space. Jason and John headed out early to try their hand at Halibut fishing. Steve and Michelle and I followed a short while later. All the way across to Thomas Bay we heard Jason and John calling us on the radio but they could not hear us respond. They called often enough that it was obvious that something was wrong. I kept going past Thomas Bay to check on the halibut hole they were going to fish and Steve went into the bay where he found them. For some reason the battery went dead and they were unable to start the big motor and the radio would send but not receive.
We anchored behind Spray Island, the currents were quite strong so getting the stern line to shore was a bit of a challenge.
About 5 pm a large thunderstorm blew in with lots of flashes of lightening and thunder. A special weather alert was put out for dangerous winds. Sure enough a gust of wind of about 30 hit us and pushed us back towards the island we were stern tied to. We thought the anchor must have been dragging so we tried to reset by letting out the stern line but the wind was so strong it began to twist us around and we had to cut the stern line to keep from entangling us. In the process my home-build PVC line reel blew apart narrowly missing Jason's head and Michelle burned her hand trying to hang on to the line until Jason could get to the knive to cut the line free. Glen arrived and took two tries getting his anchor down and once he was set we pulled up and tied to him. By then the storm was past and the winds had died down. Just a bit of excitement.
Thomas Bay before the wind storm
6/25/13
Took the dinghy’s to the other end of the bay to go explore the glacier. I took NO Debt which was a mistake. I charged the batteries and wanted to see how long they would last with a fresh charge and without a working charging system on the motor. About 30 minutes. We went dead at the far end and had to motor back using the small kicker while the others continued up the river right to the face of the glacier. Bummer, we missed out on a fun run up some wild rapids.
A Dozen shrimp and one keeper crab is all we got in the pots.
Headed north with Steve and Michelle about 3 pm. We decided to anchor in the lee of Cape Fanshaw in Cleveland Passage behind Whitney Island. It was a fairly sheltered bay, no wind when we set the anchor and it was a good thing it was a good set because after dinner about the time we were getting ready to go to bed the wind came up fairly strong for about 2 hours. It rained all evening and well into the night.
Jason caught a small halibut off the back of the boat about 10 pm.
6/26/13
John went out fishing this morning in our small inflatable, No Debt being out of service as I charged both batteries. We pulled them out of the boat after disconnecting them and gave them both a good charge while we were underway yesterday. Shortly after he left I heard a faint cry for help from John who had caught a large halibut and he needed help landing it. Jason and I quickly hooked up one of the batteries in No Debt and ran out to where he was hanging on to the fish. We managed to land him, the net being just big enough and we were able to kill it with a few whacks with the fish gaff before pulling him onto the boat. It took up most of the floor space on No Debt. No way was it coming on board the inflatable.
Jason went back out in No Debt while John cleaned his fish and he called back saying he had a big one on. I had already secured the small dinghy on the back of the boat so I untied from Steve with Miner Debt and took John with me to help Jason net the fish. Unfortunately it was bigger than the net and when John tried to get him in he lunged and broke the cable leader on Jason’s line. Big disappointment. But shortly after that Jason caught another large one, about 30 lbs. and they were able to land that one. Three big fish in less than an hour with two being landed, not bad fishing.
We left for Tracy arm about 1015 planning on anchoring in Tracy Cove and using the small inflatables to explore Tracy arm to the glacier. Weather started fairly nice but by 1pm it was raining on us and looking less inviting the closer we got to Tracy Arm. It poured all evening and all night. We hunkered down in Tracy Arm and had a slab of Halibut plus steaks for dinner. Plan is to explore Tracy arm tomorrow, by dinghy if its nice by Miner’s Debt if its not.
6/27/13
It’s Not.
Still gray and cold and raining. We took Miner’s Debt down Tracy Arm leaving Nelsea anchored in the bay. It takes a lot longer to get there than you think. There are no bergs in the arm like last time. Nothing but a few small bergie bits. We made it all the way to the face of the South Sawyer Glacier, within half a mile before the ice stopped us. We sat and watched skyscraper sized chunks of ice crumble into the fjord. It was spectacular and even with the clouds and rain everyone had a great time. The girls cooked up a great breakfast for us while we were underway.
On the way back I went down to check on the engines and I had transmission oil leaking onto the pads I have laid down under the engine. I quickly isolated the leak to a loose fitting after my initial panic thinking I had blown a seal or something more significant. But a quick twist with a wrench and the leak stopped. Good thing I checked when I did, I caught it before I lost too much oil and did any damage.
Jason and I are now alone as Steve and Michelle have left for Juneau to drop off John and Elise. The others were delayed a bit and will not be here till tomorrow. Jason and I will probably wait for them here and then head up to Taku Harbor or we may stay another day and run all the way to Juneau on Saturday so Jason can catch his plane on Sunday. We shall see. As I recall fishing was better in Taku so we may head that way tomorrow and not wait for the others.
The rain has finally stopped and it is a beautiful afternoon here in Tracy Cove.
Jason put down my shrimp pot last evening and we went out to recover it and could not pull it up. It was stuck on something and the entire float was pulled under water and we almost lost it as I could barely reach down in the 47 degree water far enough to release the catch to let it float back up. We put my anchor retrieval ring on it with 300 feet of rope and Jason used the small inflatable to try to pull it free. After several attempts it popped loose from whatever was holding it. I figured with the amount of force we used the pot would be bent double but there was absolutely no damage. I have no idea what it could have been snagged on. The sad part is there was only one measly tiger shrimp in the pot.
There are 6 other boats in here with us tonight so were not really alone but it feels wild and remote. A layer of mist settled on the shoreline, eagles and loons were calling making it see like we were far removed from civilization. Jason and I fished after dinner off the boat till little mosquitoes chased us inside about 1030.
6/28/13
We pulled anchor and fished for a couple of hours off the little islands just outside of Tracy arem and waited for the others to catch us. They arrived about 2 pm and decided to try to anchor in Sumdum cove 23 miles down Endicott Arm It took multiple trys but we finally got the anchors down about 4 pm. It was too late to gothe 25 miles to the Dawes Glacier so we dcecided to pray the weather holds for tomorrow and run down by dinghy. Jason and Glen went out fishing and caught several cod off the point.
Steve and Michelle returned and joined us.
Sunset photos taken at 11pm in Sumdum cove
6/29/13
50 plus miles in the dingy. We ran all the way down Endicott arm to the face of Dawes Glacier and took a side trip into Fords Terror. Really a great trip. Fords Terror is a huge fjord that is entered by big boats at slack water because the entrance is a narrow 90 degree dog leg surrounded by shoals at the entrance. We went through at peak ebb so it was like running a river to get in but once inside it is a stunning area with emerald green water. Two other boats were inside for the night. We left after about an hour of exploring and went the rest of the way to the Glacier. There were lots more large icebergs but the little chucks of ice that kept you from getting close to South Sawyer were not here and we could have gone right up to the 300 foot face of the glacier but if one of the columns had decided to collapse while close up it would be a bad day for all concerned.
After getting back to the boats about 4 pm (long day in a dinghy) Jason and I pulled out and headed for Taku Harbor. It was a pleasant run up Stephens passage and we were able to find a spot on the public dock inside. No crab. NO fish.
6/30/13
Got up early and ran to Juneau by 10 am. Jason and I walked into town and got a good breakfast at the Rockwell in downtown Juneau. four cruise ships were in so the streets were crowded. got Jason off with a chest full of fish and I went over to pick up fuel. We had a temporary spot until our permanent spot opened up on the intermediate Vessel Float. By the time I finished picking up fuel, 250 gallons my slip was open and I went down and got tied up without any problems considering I was solo.
The dock master is very nice and helpful.
It was hot and sunny all day but by 8 pm it had started to rain and by midnight it was raining hard.
7/1/13
RAIN!!!! It is pouring outside and blowing. On top of that the reverse air is not working, something is plugging the intake so I cannot get any water into the pump. Tried pulling the hoses off but cannot clean it from inside so I called a diver and he will be down tomorrow to clean it from under the boat. The mechanic for the motor on NO Debt will also be down in the morning.
I am sitting in the library where they have free internet writing as it is too wet to walk around town with the thousands of tourists. I need to walk down to the other end of town and get a couple 5 gallon buckets with lids so I can change oil. gotta go get some PVC parts to fix the stern line reel and pick up more oil.
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